The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016, Day 9

Thursday 25th August 2016 - Newbiggin-on-Lune to Appleby-in-Westmorland
Distance:  12.7 miles
Weather:   Rain to start then overcast and warm for the rest of the day

We had breakfast at eight o'clock  so we could get an early start and we were on our way by nine after a good chat with our landlady, Brenda.  We can highly recommend her establishment - she knows how to look after long distance walkers.  The first part of today's journey took us along a minor road which we soon left to join a footpath also used by the Coast to Coasters: we saw lots of them as they passed by on their way from Shap to Kirkby Stephen.  Amongst them were three 14 year old  boys who were camping and they gave us a cheery wave as they tramped past. We also met a group of five Dales High Way walkers who were eating up the miles and keen to soldier on to Appleby. 

We crossed Ravenstonedale Moor and then traversed Great Kimmond and the impressive limestone pavements.  The guide book had promised excellent views but the low cloud had other ideas.  From Great Kimmond we trekked through cow filled meadows which fortunately were congregating a long way from our path and stiles.  The farm yard at Clockeld was as mucky as last time but soon a quiet lane led us into Great Asby.  The lawnmower goats were in place and we knew the Greyhound pub would be shut so we had brought lunchtime provisions.   Then, as we approached the church, we saw a sign  and lo, the church was holding an exhibition, 'Knitted Bible Stories' and, more importantly, they were serving tea and cake.  We toddled in and enjoyed the delights of knitted figures representing all the major bible stories from the old and new testaments including a splendid depiction of the Last Supper.  The church also had the most lovely pew runners made of felt with wool provided by the local sheep.  The runners were decorated with images, themes, patterns relating to the village and it is well worth visiting the church to have a look.  We enjoyed some homemade cake and a big pot of tea whilst we chatted to the volunteers.

We were soon back on the path and following an alternative route via quiet lanes to Hoff as we knew the official route was extremely boggy.  So we walked along minor roads and enjoyed hamlets, farmhouses and delightful woodlands.  I was on the look out for Red Squirrels but, alas, they were all hiding.  The hamlet of Drybeck included Drybeck  Hall, built in 1678, with its chickens, two beautiful horses and a laden plum tree.  At Hoff village the pub, which had been closed and sporting a' For Sale' sign on our last visit, was now open for business.  We sat outside and enjoyed a drink before heading off on the final stage to Appleby.

The path hugged the banks of Hoff Beck-  a neglected path which was muddy and full of nettles, brambles and thistles.  The mud was thick, sticky and red - true Eden Valley mud.  At Bandley Bridge we crossed the beck and as we did so a dog came running towards us followed by its owner.  This turned out to be our saviour from some very frisky cows in the next field.  The dog walker lived in Appleby and walks these local paths everyday so we asked her which was the best to use (we had a choice of two).  Indeed, we asked which was the least muddy and least cow infested.  We were informed that both had cows but the higher path was less muddy and the cows were young milkers so likely to be more placid.  Our new friend kindly offered to lead the way and we followed in her wake.  Sure enough, the path was relatively mud free and there were cows which trotted over as soon as they spotted us.  Our guide talked to the cows which then decided to follow us all the way across the field and it was with great relief that we crossed a stile and left them behind.  I shall now call our guide the cow whisperer. Handshakes, thank yous, goodbyes and a short cut into Appleby were shared and we were soon in the middle of town and collecting our certificates from the tourist information office. 

Our second Dales High Way was complete and what a joy it had been.  The scenery, the villages, the towns, the pubs, the cafes, the fellow walkers, the food, the weather, the cows, the locals, the B&Bs, the guide book - they have all helped make this a walk to remember.  Get out there and do it - you will not be disappointed.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016 Day 8

Wednesday, 24th August 2016 - Sedbergh to Newbiggin
Distance:  10.9miles
Weather:   sunshine, warm breeze

Breakfast with Suzy is always good - freshly squeezed orange juice, homemade marmalade and jam and all served on good bone china and silver service.  Suzy recommended 'On the Roll' take away for our lunch time food and it was good: efficient, well-priced and a lovely lady who runs the business.  So lunch bought and within minutes we were back on the trail and starting the long, slow slog up to

The Calf which is the highest point on the Howgills.

It was warm and overcast and still as we followed the steep and rocky path past Settlebeck Gill.  We met two chaps on a day out from Newcastle who were walking a circuit up to the Calf and down Cautley Spout.  On we went  and reached Arant How where we met our Cambridgeshire friends from the previous afternoon.  We chatted and admired the view as we caught our breath and then we were off again.  It was quite a slog and seemed harder than last time (heavier packs and five years older).  Eventually we reached the trig point with a great sense of achievement.  The views were incredible with 360 degrees of stunning landscapes: The Lakeland Fells, Morecombe Bay and The Howgills.  Again we caught up with the Cambridgeshire boys and took photos and chatted.  They headed off for Cautley Spout whilst we found the faint path to take us to Hazelgill Knott and the heart of the Howgills. 

Until now we had seen lots of people including a lady from Kendal who had run up the fell.  Now as we left the main path, we had the fells to ourselves and we were enveloped by the sleeping elephants.  We found a spot for lunch but it was damp so we walked some more and found a dryer spot to sit and take in the splendour of our surroundings and imprint the memory of them.  West Fell was next and then it was a gentle, soggy descent to Bowderdale and a cooling paddle in the beck.  Then, joy of joys, we walked past the garden with the mini Howgills and we spoke to the owners again.  They were amazed we were so excited to see them.  A short walk and we arrived at Tranna Hill and our bed for the night.  It had been a day to remember.

The Dales High Way- The Return, August 2016, Day 7

Tuesday 23rd August 2016, Dent to Sedbergh
Distance:    7 miles
Weather:     warm and sunny

A great breakfast, a chat with fellow guests and our hosts at the excellent Sun Inn and we were on the trail by ten o'clock.  We planned an easy day today as we had the wonders of the Howgills to look forward to tomorrow.  So today we were following a route to Sedbergh of our own devising as we thought the fields and paths would be sodden or still flooded after the deluge the previous day.

We followed a minor road out of Dent and it was a delightful walk with stone cottages, farms, occasional meetings with polite, brightly coloured cyclists and  the River Dee popping back to see us as the road and river wended their ways along the dale.  I recognised part of the route from last year when I was completing the final stages of  The Pennine Journey.  The views of the dale were beautiful and we could see the Howgills ahead looking gorgeous in the sunshine.  We could see we had made the right decision to walk along the road as many of the fields we passed were still flooded  with marooned sheep looking...sheepish.  We walked through dappled woodland with huge Oak, Beech and Ash trees towering over us.  We passed an old, empty watermill with the mill stones propped against a wall.  Birds twittered and rustled in the hedgerows amongst brambles, ferns and wild flowers.  Moss covered stone walls shined emerald green and, always, the sound of gushing water tumbling over rocks.

Now we could see the Howgills in all their glory and beneath them the shining town of Sedbergh.  Through a gate onto Holme Fell where the sheep grazed on rich, green meadows and we found a convenient bench to sit and enjoy the scene and watch a paraglider attempt to launch himself off The Calf (our highest point on tomorrow's walk).    We set off on the final stage of the day's journey and turned right and downhill through Sedbergh Golf course which was busy with  golfers.  Our path was blocked at the River Rawthey as the footpath was being replaced so we headed across the fields to Millthrop which is a hamlet filled with stone cottages and pretty, flower filled gardens.  We also saw a trampoline upside down on top of a green house - I am sure it wasn't supposed to be there... 

We crossed the river on a fine stone bridge and entered Sedbergh.  Lunch was eaten in a café and we visited the tourist information office followed by a sit on a bench in the sunshine by a lovely bee friendly public garden.  It  seemed everyone wanted to talk to us as we sat there in the sun.  First three gentlemen from Cambridgeshire, who were on a reccy for a walk they were leading in the autumn, asked us which we thought was the best route out of town and up onto the Howgills.  We also gave them advice on a place to buy their lunch for tomorrow and where to buy hats and sunscreen.  They departed with queries answered and then another chap stopped for a chat who had just been doing interviews for a project manager with the task of raising the Sedbergh's profile with the help of volunteers as there is no money in the pot.  Again, Mrs C and I had lots of advice and suggestions - Yarn bombing, scarecrow festivals, litter picks and so on.  It turned out he knew a teacher I used to work with at home (it is a small world).  We shook hands, wished him well and off he went.  Next a young woman on a bicycle stooped for a chat.  We were in our element.

Gin and tonics at The Dalesman and then we headed to our B&B, Wheelwright Cottage and our landlady Suzy.  This was my third visit to this B&B and it was just the same - simple, comfortable with  a good breakfast.  As we showered and changed for dinner, the church bells were ringing out as it was practice night at the church.  Phone calls were made to our dear husbands and then, on Suzy's recommendation, we had dinner at the Red Lion - excellent pies.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016 Day 6

Monday 22nd August - Ribblehead to Dent
Distance:   8 miles
Weather:    poured with rain until 2pm then overcast

We looked at the weather this morning and a command decision was made by me and agreed by Mrs C: we would catch the train from Ribblehead to Dent Station.  This is a ten minute train journey which would save us 3 miles walking through the deluge which greeted us when we opened the curtains this morning and had accompanied our interrupted sleep last night.  As we were preparing to leave we met a couple from Stratford-upon-Avon who were also staying at The Station Inn and were walking The Dales Way which converges with The Dales High Way at  Dent Dale.  They had also decided to catch the train whereas the other Dales Way Walkers at the Inn were determined to continue to do the whole day on the trail.  Time tables were consulted ( a handy notice above the bar in the Station Inn gave us all the information we needed) and we walked two minutes to the station through the sheeting rain.  We sheltered in the warm, dry waiting room and the train arrived promptly and we were off.  Our new companions (R & I ) sat with us and a chap opposite chatted to me about the weather and the floods in Carlisle and Cockermouth last winter.  The train guard waved us off the train saying we were mad .  I checked our route and R & I asked if they could accompany us which we were happy to agree to as they were good company as we splashed downhill along the river/road. 

As we approached the River Dee, we could hear it thundering which was a surprise to me as on previous walks along Dent Dale the river was no where to be seen.  Then we reached the bridge and the riverside path we were going to follow and we saw the river in full spate.  The path was flooded and the trees overhanging the river were being tossed about by the force of the water.  I consulted the map and I suggested we walk along the quiet road to Dent - all agreed immediately.  The rain continued to pour: every beck, spring and stream coming down the dale sides was a torrent.  In places, the road was covered in rushing water which hurried to join the overflowing river below us.  We met a couple of ladies heading the other way and they told us that the water was quite deep in places further along the road.  We soldiered on, chatting, getting wet feet and laughing in the face of adversity.  Suddenly we noticed a river pouring across the road from the fields on the right.  Someone said, "Shall we take off our boots and paddle ?"  This was dismissed and we waded through with boots on and the water was over our ankles.  The force of the water was strong and scary but we made it across.  We continued along the road with many more flooded sections.  The Tesco delivery van passed us and gave us a cheery wave - nothing stops them. 

Eventually we arrived in Dent which, thankfully, was flood free.  R had said he would get us all hot chocolates so we headed for the pub and enjoyed lovely hot chocolate drinks as we chatted and dried out in the bar.  Goodbyes were said as R & I still had to walk to Sedbergh for their next night's accommodation.  They checked our maps for a drier route and then they were off.  We walked the short distance to our accommodation, The Sun Inn and shut the door on the weather.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016, Day 5

Sunday 21st August 2016 - Stainforth to Ribbleshead
Distance:   11.5miles
Weather:   Overcast with signs of a blue sky at last but with scattered showers

I had an excellent breakfast of scrambled egg and salmon - a treat for the weather weary walker.  I met the fellow guest who was from Warwick and was heading up Ingleborough today.  My excellent breakfast was enjoyed in a delightful conservatory overlooking a beautiful walled garden - so civilised. 

Mrs C arrived and we were on the trail by half past ten.  She was to be my companion for the last four days of the walk.  We walked back over the damaged packhorse bridge had a quick look at the Force and re-joined the Dales High Way at Little Stainforth.  We were on our way to Smearset Scar which is another limestone delight.  We were in Feizor  as quick as you can say "a pot of tea and a slice of cake please" and soon enjoying those refreshments at the Feizor Tea rooms which we visited last time.  We had just finished our tea and cake when Co-op Alan appeared followed by his fellow Liverpudlian walkers.  There were introductions all round and best wishes for the day and then we went our separate ways.  We were now heading for Crummack via the pretty hamlet of Thwaite.  It was lovely walking with meadows, stone walls, woodlands, hedges full of rowan trees loaded with berries and wildflowers including thistle and cranesbill.  We crossed Austwick Beck via the Wash Dub Field bridge. 

Just before Crummack we were looking for a footpath to set us off on the alternative low level route to Ribbleshead via Selside avoiding Ingleborough (we climbed Ingleborough on our last trip).  This alternative route was fabulous:  on the left, Ingleborough brooding and its top hidden by low cloud, and on the right and ahead, acres of limestone pavements, crags and scars.  Crummack Dale nestled below us  and beyond, Pen-y-gent also brooded under its usual mantle of cloud.  We stopped for lunch by Sulber Gate and had time to enjoy the amazing views and what a fantastic spot this was to appreciate the limestone dales in all their geological glory.  We also spotted the Bronze Age stone wall mentioned in the guide book. 

Soon we were descending to Selside through sheep filled meadows where we startled a hare which tore off down the field ahead of us.  We passed the sign for Alum Pot which warned us we needed to pay 50p for the pleasure of entering the pot hole.  At Selside we saw a neat row of railway cottages and we crossed the Settle-Carlisle railway line with no trains within sight or hearing.  A bit of hair raising road walking and then we found the path rising over the fields towards more limestone crags.  At Colt Park we descended again to the road for another half a mile of road walking.  The traffic was light but it was fast and furious and there was not a lot of verge in places to escape the hurtling cars.  It was a relief to see the welcoming lights of the Station Inn and, more importantly, to see at last the grandeur and immenseness of the Ribblehead Viaduct.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016, Day 4

Saturday 20th August - Malham to Stainforth
Distance:  10.3miles
Weather:  light rain to start followed by steady, continuous rain

Malham Youth Hostel was greatly improved since my last visit in 2011.  A decent night's sleep and a good breakfast set me up for the day.  I was on the trail by half past eight and it was dry for the first twenty minutes.  There was nobody about except a few hardy campers.  I sat on a rock and contemplated the cove in all its glory.  It is a magnificent place with the sound of the busy beck and the twittering birds.  I girded my loins with a couple of jelly babies and then I was off up the stone steps to the limestone pavement.  I took my time and admired the view frequently whilst plodding behind a pair of chattering blokes in matching shorts. I skirted round the back of the limestone pavement as I knew the limestone would be tricksy with all the rain.  I met lots of sheep who looked at me quizzically and I soon arrived at the stile leading into the dry valley (one of the highlights of the walk last time). 

The heavens opened at this point and then I saw the Highland cattle scattered along the path ahead.  At that moment I spotted a lady from my room at the Youth Hostel and knew she and her husband were heading the same way as me this morning.  They kindly walked with me past the cattle and safely up the limestone valley which, in the rain, was quite silent and empty.  Of course the Highland Cows did not even look up as we passed them - totally chilled.  The rain stopped as we reached the top of the rocky 'staircase' and we parted company.  I did not miss the turning this time as Mrs C and I did 5 years ago. 

The next stage was across the moors of Langscar and Nappa Cross.  There were lots of cattle but they were scattered across the hillsides and so I did not give them a second glance.    I followed the Pennine Bridleway down to Stockdale Farm surrounded by soggy sheep.  I reached the gate leading to Attermire Scar and the caves.  A sign had been pinned to the gate inviting the curious to visit an archaeological dig high on the hill side below the caves.  I decided to give it a miss as the rain was falling in earnest and the dig site was up a steep path.  After a snack and a drink and then my rucksack falling onto a muddy path, I set off for Settle through the driving rain which sheeted across the fields.  I passed some stoic Highland Cattle and Swaledale Sheep who stood rock still enduring the weather. 

Eventually, I reached the bright lights of the town.  I had planned a visit to the Naked Man Café for tea and cake but, as I was once more dripping wet,  I gave it a miss.  Instead I now had three major priorities; find a toilet, find somewhere to eat my lunch out of the weather and buy food for the next day's walk.  After a visit to the tourist information office to locate the public loos I sorted the first priority.  A visit to the parish church sorted out the second - I ate my lunch perched on a step in the  porch and watched the rain persisting down under a memorial to the workers who died building the Settle to Dent section of the great railway.  A visit to the Co-op sorted out the third priority.  It had a handy bench just inside the entrance so I was able to sort out my purchases which included a copy of the Craven Herald for stuffing into my wet boots later.  I then sat for a while contemplating the falling rain before I set off on the walk to Stainforth.   A gentleman said hello and an old lady wearily sat next to me as she sorted out her shopping.  I asked her if she was alright and she said that yes she was fine just old.

So I set off for the final stage of the day - three miles to Stainforth.  Over the bridge and along a footpath past the Settle United Football Ground.  Settle were playing in the pouring rain which did not look like much fun.  There were no spectators apart from the manager and the linesmen.  I left the river and walked along a quiet road where I met the gentleman from the Co-op.  He was heading back to his campervan which was set up at Little Stainforth Campsite.  We had a good chat about walking - he leads a group from Liverpool and takes them walking once a month.  We shook hands and wished each other well and then I turned right for the river and the bridge above Stainforth Force.  A couple were stood on the bridge and asked me where the waterfall was so I pointed them in the right direction.  I followed them down to have a look at the Force but not before a dozen cyclists came hurtling down the hill, over the bridge and up the other side.  The lovely pack horse bridge had a hole in it where a motorist had driven into the parapet recently.

The rain now decided to start pouring hard again.  It was half past three and I could not go the B&B early, and I was dripping, wet so I retired to the pub, The Craven Heifer.  It was full of the cyclists who had just passed me on the bridge and they were all sinking pints like it was the last time they would ever drink.  And, joys of joys, the fire was lit and glowing warmly so I put all my wet stuff around the fire along with the cyclists' gear. 

I ordered a gin and tonic and sat by the fire and gently steamed along with my gear.  The cyclists were interested in what I was doing so we had a good chat.  One chap told me about his job as a restorer of our wonderful peat bogs and moors - what a fantastic job.  Another chap was a ranger on the Malham estate for seventeen years and he told me that the wall which descends down the middle of the dry valley above Malham Cove divides the lands of 2 monasteries - Fountains and Rivaulx. 

Eventually the cyclists wobbled off into the rain and I gathered my stuff, booked my dinner at the pub and headed for my B&B, Holly House B&B.  The owner was lovely.  I stuffed my sodden boots with the Craven Herald and retreated to my room which had a lovely view of the garden and the church beyond.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016, Day 3

Friday 19th August - Skipton to Malham
Distance:  14 miles
Weather:  overcast for first 3 miles then persistent rain for the rest of the day (it rained cats and dogs and cows).

Mrs R  kindly drove me to the station to catch my train as today was my first solo day on a long distance trail.  I arrived in Skipton at ten past nine and I was on the trail by half past after purchasing a 15p banana from Skipton Market and two Yorkshire Curd Tarts from the bakers.  I decided to take the alternative route out of town as it doesn't increase the mileage and, more importantly, it is guaranteed cow free.  I was so glad I took this delightful route as it follows the path by the canal and river through Skipton Castle Woods with great views of the castle walls and the general green loveliness of a woodland in high summer.  It was a bit convoluted to get back on the official route after the woods but it was well worth the diversion.

 A left turn at the Craven Heifer and I headed steadily uphill towards my first goal of the day - Sharp Haw.  The sky was full of ominous clouds but I soldiered on to reach the summit. which was windy with fabulous dramatic views and dark clouds heading my way. 

After a slight hesitation with my navigation as I wasn't sure which path to descend, I plunged down the other side of Sharp Haw and into another delightful wood.  I found Helen's memorial seat and enjoyed one of the delicious Yorkshire Curd Tarts which was a taste sensation and the discovery of the trip.  Then the rain started and forgot to stop for the rest of the day.

In the woods the rain was not a problem and I was making good progress and feeling confident on my first solo day and then I found a field of cows with the path running through the middle of a cow meeting. They saw me and all turned to look as though I was late for my presentation.  In fact I could not see the path or see where the gate/stile was on the other side so for a moment I stood considering my options.  I decided, as always, that discretion was the key and I skirted the field until I found a locked gate further down which I started to climb over (I know - needs must).  The cows were still watching me and started to take a keen interest in my next move.  After pausing for a moment I clambered over the gate and hot footed it down the field towards a gate with the cows following me.  I reached the gate before them and quickly put the gate between me and the cows which all lined up along the gate and watched me walk down the farm track and round the corner...

I entered the hamlet of Flasby where the official path heads across the fields to Hetton.  I knew from last time that there would probably be cows in those riverside meadows so I took the road route of two miles down a quiet lane which would have been quite pleasant without the driving rain and wind.  My plans for a cup of tea and a slice of cake in The Angel at Hetton were scuppered as I was dripping wet and I do not think they would have liked a sodden hiker steaming by the bar.  It was now lunch time and I could not find any shelter in Hetton - no church porch or bus shelter - so I ate my lunch under a dripping tree at the bottom of Moor Lane where the postman gave me a cheery wave as he drove by in his nice, dry van.

Moor Lane was a steady climb towards Weets Top.  The rain continued to fall and I was surrounded by the moors shrouded in wet, slow moving clouds.  All was going fine and then I saw cows on the path ahead of me - what is it with cows and paths?  I retreated and considered my options again.  After consulting the map and exploring the possibility of scrambling over walls, I was on the verge of returning to Hetton.  I decided to head up the path once more and see if the cows had moved on and, thank heavens, they had.  All the cows and their calves had sauntered off down the valley and well away from the path.  I walked quickly by them and once again put a gate between me and the bovine beasts.  I now had a clear run to Weets Top which I was just going to pass by but I decided to go and bag the trig point.  I now headed steeply down hill to Hawthorne Lane and Gordale Scar.  It was too wet to go and look today.  I plodded on secretly looking forward to a hot cup of tea at the mobile café but it wasn't there!  Janet's Foss was next but the path was wet and slippy.  Then it was one and half miles into Malham and the Youth Hostel.  I made full use of the drying room and had an excellent dinner at the hostel with a fine glass of Rose - cheers.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016, Day 2

Thursday 18th August - Ilkley to Skipton
Distance|:  11 miles
Weather:  overcast to start then warm sunshine

We caught an earlier train from Guiseley today as we had further to walk.  Holly, the Labrador, seemed to be pleased to be heading out again for another walk.  We arrived in Ilkley at 9 o'clock and we were soon on the trail heading up Spicey Gill on the edge of Rombalds Moor.

  There were lots of dogs and their owners out today and Holly was pleased to see them.  We passed the swastika stone carving and the Noon Stone and soon we arrived at Addingham Moorside.  We were following the alternative route to avoid the quagmire of the Millenium Trail through the village and  passed a memorial to a Mosquito aircrew who crashed into the hillside in 1943.  Then we headed downhill along an old pack horse route to Slade Farm past some chilled horses and onto fairly quiet lanes which skirted the village.  On route we admired a lovely cottage with beautiful flowers which spilled out on to the grass verge. 

We crossed the busy bypass and soon we were heading up Moor Lane towards Draughton Heights and walking in the footsteps of the Romans.  A steady uphill climb and suddenly the sun came out and the rest of the day was spent in glorious, hot sunshine.  We met a couple walking in the opposite direction : he was eager to get to the pub and she was happily taking photos of the wonderful views.  They had travelled up from Sheffield the day before and were enjoying a short walking holiday.  We then met the lady from the previous day who was the back up team for her husband so we stopped and had a chat.

The day was getting increasingly hot and we were looking for somewhere sheltered to stop for lunch but we could not find anywhere.  All we wanted was a couple of rocks, some shade and a stream for Holly to cool down in - we made do with perching by the edge of the path while Holly tried to find some shade under my legs (I think she likes me).

We were soon off again with 3 miles to go.  The path was rocky and rutted as we headed down hill.  Eventually the path led into a cool, sun dappled woodland which gave us a break from the sun and  before we knew it we were on the outskirts of Skipton.  We walked slowly into town and enjoyed a refreshing drink at the first pub we came to and it was good.  We found the train station and headed for home.

The Dales High Way - The Return, August 2016, Day 1

Wednesday 17th August 2016, Saltaire to Ilkley

Weather:  Overcast and warm to start with sunshine by mid-afternoon

Distance: 7.5 miles

A return to the marvellous Dales High Way which I completed with Mrs C in 2011.  I shall be walking the whole route with guest appearances from the aforementioned Mrs C and, on her debut long distance walk, Mrs R and her lovely Labrador, Holly.  I will also be using some of the alternative routes which have either evolved since the walk was formulated or are bad weather options from the official guide book.

Day One dawned and Mrs R and I were off on our adventures. After a leisurely breakfast we walked to Guiseley Station to catch the Saltaire train. They have an excellent train service in this part of the world - clean, with air-conditioning and a frequent, prompt service.  We were on the trail by half past ten but not before Mrs R directed a lost young man to the local FE college.  We were too early to enjoy a cup of tea from the narrow boat on the Leeds-Liverpool canal so we walked on and passed the cricket and football grounds and bowling greens - they are a sporty lot in Saltaire.

We left the canal at the first lock as a narrow boat full of tea drinking gentlemen motored by. We were then assailed by a budding entrepreneur on the lock side.  He asked if we would like to buy any of his wares.  We looked more closely and sure enough he had items laid out on the lock wall - second hand books, stickers and tissues.  Mrs R asked if he was fund raising for a charity and he answered that he wanted to run a business when he was older and you have got to start somewhere.  Good luck to him - Mrs R bought some stickers.

A steady climb up through Shipley Glen then onto Baildon Moor and the views began to open up back over Saltaire and beyond.  We met a lady heading in the opposite direction and asked if she was doing the DHW. She wasn't but her husband was and she was his support team, dropping him off each day and meeting him at the next night's accommodation: a fine arrangement.  We passed Weechor Reservoir after deciding not to take the safer option through the fields as there were cows around the stiles.  We safely negotiated the short, hectic road section and entered the delights of Bingley Moor.

Lunch was eaten  and then Burley Moor was followed by Ilkley Moor and we were surrounded by glorious, full blooming heather which, combined with  dry paths and a following wind, made perfect walking conditions.  The flag was flying at White Wells cafe and we enjoyed a drink whilst looking down on the bright lights of Ilkley.  A short walk into town to catch our train where the tired dog, Holly, lay quietly on the floor of the carriage.  An older gentleman boarded with his bicycle and we chatted as the train rattled along.  Eric Walker is 89 and was returning home after a 10 mile cycle ride.  He writes walking guides for the Santiago de Compostela long distance route,  a keen walker and a member of Otley Cycle Club.  The website tells you more about his guides and his particular interest in the routes followed by English pilgrims.  An interesting chap who illustrates that you never know who you are going to meet on a train and, more importantly, age is no barrier to getting out there and doing stuff one way or another.

Saturday 30th July 2011 Newbiggin-on-Lune to Appleby-in-Westmorland

Weather:  Sunny and warm
Distance:  12.7 miles

Our second to last cooked breakfast of the trip at Tranna Hill and it was a good 'un despite the cooker breaking down half way through cooking it  (Well done Brenda).  We met Pal and Joy from Hull this morning who were also staying at the B&B.  We had a good chat with them and then we were off by 9:30 on the last day of our splendid journey.  We walked out of the village in the glorious sunshine which was to stay with us all day and headed for Ravenstonedale Moor.  This brought memories back for me and Mrs C as we have both walked the Coast to Coast walk.  We met some Coast to Coasters striding manfully along the trail.  I wanted to stop them and tell them how good The Dales Highway was and they must do it next but I managed to restrain myself.  Both feet were now in a world of pain from the heel down but I was still ignoring the agony and soldiering on, well, hobbling on.  We skirted Great Kinmond and crossed the limestone pavement to the cairn to check out the panoramic views  and they were excellent - Orton Fells, Lakeland Fells and the Pennines all in glorious technicolour.  Then it was down the fields to Great Asby.  On the way we spotted a hare racing across the field ahead of us and  we also met some cows....but survived the encounters.  Getting good at this now.  Great Asby was very quiet but we saw the local grass cutters (goats) and the pub called The Three Greyhounds was open so we called in for lunch and it was just what we needed to see us through the rest of the day.   After lunch we followed Hoff Beck along the river banks through meadows filled with more cows.  We had a brief rest at Rutter Mill which had a ford through which two cars drove whilst we were resting.  Luckily they drove through slowly so we didn't get a soaking.  Before long we could see Appleby Castle in the distance and we knew the walk was almost over.  We sat under a tree and had a drink before setting off on the final mile of the journey.  Whilst we sat and mulled over the trip we said there should be a brass band waiting for us in town and bunting hanging from the lampposts.  Well, when we arrived in town the bunting was out and musicians and entertainers were preparing for a festival due to take place that evening - result!  We found the B&B Bongate House, had a shower and went off into town to see the fun and find some dinner.  The show was great - roaming entertainers, jugglers, magicians, puppets, stilt walkers, musicians.  There must have been 700 people in town to see the spectacle which was organised by Lakes Alive.  We watched a pair of comedians for a while and then went in search of food.  We found a Tapas Bar and enjoyed a platter of tasty morsels washed down with champagne.  A stylish and memorable way to mark the end of our epic trip.

 Sunday 31st July 2011

It was time to go home and we were travelling on the Settle to Carlisle Railway. We arrived at Appleby station in plenty of time so we chatted to the gardener who turned out to be the chairman of the committee which runs the station.  We also talked to the chap with the buffet trolly and he shared some of his stories about the railway line.  The train arrived on time and we were off - homeward bound.  The weather had closed in so the views were not so good but we could still see all the places we had been.  We met our fellow guests from  Tranna Hill B&B - Paul and Joy - and we had a good old chat with them about our walk and their plans for the rest of their holiday.  Too soon we were pulling in to Leeds station and catching our connections.

This has been a most splendid experience.   The Dales High Way is a fantastic walk.  93 miles of magnificent dales, becks, rivers, fells, towns, villages, animals, birds, flowers, butterflies and geology.  Most of all the people we have met with their hospitality and friendliness- B&B owners, pub landlords, shopkeepers, other walkers and the locals  have all made this a special walk.    Of course, I must mention the tea - every brew we had was a refreshing and delightful treat.  All hale the tea!

A sign hung on the wall of The Three Greyhounds Pub in Great Asby.

A final mention to Mrs C, my walking companion - it was a pleasure to share this trip with her.  I'd still be stuck up on Ingleborough or a quivering wreck in the corner of a field near Hoff surrounded by cows without her...

Friday 29th July 2011 Sedbergh to Newbiggin-on-Lune

Weather:  Sunny and warm with some cloud
Distance:  10.9 miles

Excellent night's sleep and a tasty breakfast with homemade marmalade and jam, local honey and freshly squeezed orange juice - delicious.  We needed stuff for lunch so we called into a cafe I visited last time on The Dales Way.  The cafe had only just opened and the lady was slightly frazzled but she made us lovely cobs to take away and also flapjacks.  We were on our way by 9:20am.  It was an immediate steep climb out of Sedbergh and on to the fells.  A tough but pretty walk by a deep gill with the sound of water tumbling over rocks.  We spotted a fellrunner on his way up the same route - keen and fit.  The guidebook had commented we needed to be careful with our navigation up on the Howgills so we kept a close eye on the map and instructions.  The fellrunner proved to be the last person we saw until we arrive in Newbiggin. 10.9 miles of glorious peace and solitude with no stiles, gates, electricity pylons or daytrippers.  Just us and the wonderful magical fells (I'd been looking forward to this all week).  Once we left the gill  and started heading north for the ridge walk the path was broad and grassy.  It was an up and down path and steep in places.  The views opened up and we could see Pen-y-ghent, Ingloborough and Whernside behind us.  They remind me of Yorkshire ladies of a certain age - big and matronly who are scary to approach but, under a fierce exterior, they are beautiful to behold and full of hidden charms and delights. 

The Howgill Fells are incredible - the most intense, awe-inspiring walking I have done.  This is not because they are scary or extremely hard but because they are so beautiful and remote.  I've spent years admiring them from the M6 wishing I could walk amongst them and now here I was and, for the first section, I could see the M6 looking like  an n-gauge model below us.  We rounded a bend and there was the range of fells opening out head of us.  Folds of land, like folds of velvet Mrs C commented, nestling into the landscape and decorated with tiny spots of white.  The sheep on the fells are very intrepid.  The steep sides of the fells are lined with sheep paths and the sheep were scattered about, sure-footed and grazing on the juicy grass.  The highest fell we climbed was The Calf (676m).  From there we could see the Pennines ahead of us with the three peaks still very much in view behind us.  We could see our path ahead snaking over the fells.  To the left was Langdale Beck and to the right was Bowderdale Beck with grains and gills running into them.  The becks flowed down the ravines in a serpentine fashion with the sunshine glinting on the water and the fell sides folded down into the bottom of the gills.  We reached the top of Hazelgill Knot and stopped for lunch in the next dip looking back the way we had come.  We lunched in isolated splendour and after we'd eaten we lay back with heads resting on rucksacks and viewed the fells which now surrounded us.  We basked like two seals in the warm sunshine and gentle breeze.  An hour later we continued the walk but reluctant to leave such an inspiring, magnificent place.

I was on the look out for fell ponies but we didn't see any.  The next fell we were heading for was West Fell (542m).  Here we had even better views of the Pennines in the distance and the wide valley below us.  We started heading down to Bowderdale.  The guide book had promised us a good spot for a break by the beck and a bridge and it was an excellent spot.  We sat under a shady tree, dangled our feet in the cold, refreshing water and had a snack before the final mile to Newbiggin and our B&B.  We passed through the hamlet of Wath and were greeted by a pack of hounds barking at us (safely behind a gate) and the largest, most gorgeous chickens.  Five of them were pecking around the lane and followed us for a short while and then called after us.  The lane was quiet and soon we were reaching the bright lights and civilisation of Newbiggin.  The first house we came to had the most beautiful garden with a mini Howgill Fells in it!  The owners were out gardening and we chatted for a while - one of the fells even had a trig point.  They made their Howgills from the soil and builders rubble dug out for the house improvements.  We arrived at our B&B Tranna Hill at 5:00pm - tired. hot but very, very content after an excellent days walking.  Our kind host, Brenda, drove us to a pub in Ravenstonedale as there isn't a pub in Newbiggin.  Fish and chips went down very well.  A day to remember.

Thursday 28th July 2011 Chapel-le-Dale to Sedbergh

Weather:  Sunny and warm to start then overcast with a very slight drizzle in the evening on the walk home from the pub
Distance:  14.7 miles

This was going to be our longest and toughest day so we had a heartier breakfast than usual at the excellent Old Hill Inn..  We were out the door by 9:10am after chatting to our host over breakfast.  We set off in glorious sunshine along the road to St Leonard's church where the navvies and their families who died during the building of the railway were buried.  It is a beautiful tiny church.  Then it was up a steep lane past a pot hole where the sculpture by Charles L'anson was hurled by some disgruntled soul  and then we saw the actual sculpture back in it's rightful position after it was rescued and restored.   At Bruntscar we had the chance to consider once more if we really wanted to ascend Whernside.  We decided to do it - the weather was perfect and it was so close - it would be crazy not to....

It took  1 1/2 hours to reach the highest peak in Yorkshire (736m) and it was a hard slog as the sun was very warm and let's just say we were glowing by the time we got there.  It was worth the effort as we had fantastic views of Ingleborough, Ribblehead viaduct and all the surrounding fells.  We sat for a while by the trig point until midges drove us on.  Then it was a long, gradual descent down easy paths into Dentdale via the Craven Way which was an old drovers route.  This was followed by a walk along the River Dee which kept disappearing underground (This was part of the Dales Way route).  We stopped for lunch in a field which seemed to be cow free until we came to pack up and a herd of cows appeared at the other end of the field!  We made a sharp exit.  Not long after we arrived in beautiful Dent and had tea and cake - very nice. 

We were soon off again and out the village with some more walking by the river until we left it and headed uphill.  It was a very steep lane which went through a scruffy farm yard with broken down gates followed by a green lane between stone walls.  There was barbed wire and rubbish strewn across the path.  To top it all just as we reached the gate and stile that seemed to mark the boundary of the farm there was a rotting dead sheep - nice touch.

We walked by a gill and were now heading down hill towards Sedbergh.  We were getting tired by this stage and my feet were hurting.  We walked past a house with two peacocks on the roof - you don't see that type of thing everyday!  We finally arrived in Sedbergh at 6:00pm.  Wheelwright Cottage B&B was just the same as when I did the Dales Way in 2006.  Suzy still runs the place and she does a cracking breakfast.  We had dinner at The Dalesman and we were tucked up in bed by 9:30pm.  V tired but v pleased to have conquered two big hills in two days.  Good night Vienna.